A Cruise For The Non-Cruiser (me)

Hurtigruten's  Finnmarken in port along the coast of Norway.

Hurtigruten's Finnmarken in port along the coast of Norway.

Last year I was walking with a friend along the waterfront in San Francisco and I stopped mid conversation, gobsmacked to see a towering behemoth of a ship docked near Pier 39. At 10-storeys high and hundreds of feet long, it looked more like a toppled over skyscraper than a sea worthy vessel. Behind its tiny windows and orange lifeboats that dangled like charms, I imagined unsavvy traveling sheep ticking off items on their bucket list, this one: “Do San Francisco.”

I’d never been on a cruise so I had no idea from where this impression was conjured, but because of it I'd also never considered cruising as a vacation possibility---ever.

 “Cruising,” I said to my friend, “Is not for me.”

 “Why not?” he asked.

“The feeling of being trapped on a boat, the ports of call that are really tourist destinations packaged as ‘local experiences,’ and the food…I can’t imagine the food is very good.”

 Flash forward a year and I’m eating my words.  

When I told the same friend I was going to go on a cruise up the coast of Norway, he laughed and reminded me of my previous diatribe, “Well, I hope you enjoy eating pickled herring.”

I don’t really, but an invitation to sail from Bergen to Kirkenes piqued my interest. Mother nature did Norway a solid when she was handing out gorgeous scenery, bestowing upon this Scandinavian jewel some of the deepest and longest fjords in the world, thousands of islands, glaciers and alpine scenery, and seaside villages whose quaintness you can never seem to capture in a photograph. Truth be told, I had my own bucket list and Norway’s coast was on it. What better way to see it than via the sea, I thought. But there was the cruise part of the deal I had to overcome.

Typically six-nights, summer and winter, Hurtigruten cruises start in the lovely city of Bergen and sail north, passing the Arctic Circle (awesome photo opp.), to Kirkenes at the Russian border. There is a longer 11-night cruise, which turns around and takes the southbound route, returning to Bergen with some different stops and excursions along the way. Passengers can board at either point, or anywhere in between. I was ready to get off the ship by day six, but am now dying to go during winter when the Northern Lights are said to be ablaze.

By the time I got back to the U.S.A, I was left with great photos, fond memories, and a desire to do it all again---shocking for this self-proclaimed anti-cruiser. I’m not going to admit just yet that I’m converted, but these five things surprised me on my maiden voyage and gave me hope that not all cruises are created equal.

1. Size Matters

Hurtigruten cruise ships are nowhere near the hulks-of-the-sea that lumber around these days, and that was very appealing. The Finnmarken was built in 2002 and is the newest member of the Hurtigruten fleet. The ship carries up to 1,000 passengers, which sounds like a lot but given that some hold up to 5,000, this is petit in comparison. The only time I ever felt there were too many folks was when they queued up to leave the ship for excursions. There are roughly 780 cabins that vary in size from get-me-the-f*ck-out-of-here small (100 square feet with foldable beds) to light and airy balcony-adorned suites (only 12 available).  My cabin was hyperbolically called a Mini Suite (only 18 available), and was somewhere in the middle. It felt comfortable, even with the tiny window blocked by a lifeboat, and a shower the size of a phone booth (remember those?). I’m not complaining. I expect ship cabins to be small. It’s not the Four Seasons, after all. The Finnmarken was easy to get around and kitted with a bar and two cafes, a pool and Jacuzzi, a gym, sun chairs (sun is not guaranteed), and one main restaurant. Also aboard was a large lounge area with floor to ceiling windows designed to take in the stunning scenery that seemed to float by at all hours of the day and night. There was always room to sit, always.

Certainly one of the more nicely dressed fishermen I've ever seen.

Certainly one of the more nicely dressed fishermen I've ever seen.

2. Real People

As a traveler, I enjoy meeting local people and I think it's important to do so. Why go all the way to (fill in the blank) only to surround yourself with fellow Americans? No offense to my compatriots, but I see you all the time. The fact that all Hurtigruten ships, including the Finnmarken, are working cargo vessels that transports people and goods up and down the coast year round meant that I'd have the chance to meet real live Norwegians, and I did. I feel if (unsubstantiated) I were on a mega Caribbean cruise I’d never come in contact with, say, a teacher from the Dominican Republic or a fisherman from the Bahamas or the head chef of the entire cruise line. Am I wrong?

The Finnmarken made stops at 34 ports of call, some during the middle of the night (it’s so smooth you never hear a thing), and people and cargo load on and off at each. I had the pleasure of meeting Hurtigruten's head chef, Eirik Larsen,  who happened to be aboard and let me interview him. And I sat in the café one afternoon with a couple traveling home after spending a few days with their daughter and grandchildren (aged 2 and 5).  I was told we were having excellent weather (true) and that the only place they’d visited in the USA was New York, but they were curious about Las Vegas because they'd recently seen the film "The Hangover." Oh dear.

Fresh, vibrant tastes of Norway won't disappoint food lovers.

Fresh, vibrant tastes of Norway won't disappoint food lovers.

3. Good Food

 I’m just going to say it---I’m a food snob and by that I don’t mean I have to have Michelin-star lunches or five-course dinners. I do, however, expect food to be flavorful, fresh, and the color its meant to be whether it comes out of a 30-person kitchen or food truck. Buffets scare me and I'd always envisioned cruise ship buffets to be the worst offenders; a place where piles of grey meat wait under heat lamps next to bowls of ketchup. Or maybe it would be Mexican cuisine, theme nights being de rigueur on cruise ships, right? I’m happy to report that while there was a buffet from time to time (King Crab Legs) on the Finnmarken, I never had to don a sombrero and the food was exceptional thanks to the cruise line’s newly implemented dining concept called “Norway’s Coastal Kitchen” that brings seasonal and locally sourced ingredients from small independent farms to passengers via delicious dishes that nod to local history and tradition.  Each night a menu on the table described the ingredients and the farm from which they hailed.  I had salted lamb from Geiranger, famous for its eponymous fjord and its apples. From the Lofoten Islands that cluster off the coast, crab cocktail and halibut were served another night. And Viking tradition lives on in a cheese called Nyr, made on a small organic farm and similar, they say, to Skyr, a cheese the Vikings ate. Something I’d never heard of were the tart, orange-yellow Cloudberries, which grow only at high altitudes or in the far north of the country. Pickled herring? Yeah it was there too, but it’s also part of the local culinary pedigree of Norway, so why not be open-minded to it all?! 

The beautiful town of Alesund is worth a visit

The beautiful town of Alesund is worth a visit

 4. More to Explore

Hurtigruten's trips are called the world’s most beautiful voyages with good reason, and there’s no better way to enrich the visual pleasures of this cruise than by getting off the ship and exploring them up close. Hurtigruten offers a slew of enlightening and thoughtful adventures that get you off the ship.  Nothing is too hardcore so for adventurous types like me, you might be disappointed to learn that the chances of working up a sweat or pulling a muscle are slim. The ship is on a schedule so at times the excursions felt rushed, but all that being said, there were dozens to choose from---from birding and gentle hiking to city tours and playing with huskies  (book excursions ahead to avoid disappointment), and they are worth it. Activities vary based on the northbound and southbound journey and the time of year. On the Northbound trek, I enjoyed the stop in Alesund, one of the country’s most beautiful towns since it was rebuilt after a fire in 1904, in Art Nouveau style, filled with great restaurants and some interesting museums. Trondheim, a lively university town with Crayola-colored buildings in the old town, a breathtaking cathedral, and Rockheim, Norway’s national museum of pop and rock music, is a memorable day out. The trip to the North Cape is a must if only for a picture beneath the globe that marks the northernmost point on continental Europe. I kayaked one day, and visited a glacier another in the blazing hot sun. One evening I just meandered around a small village (and into an Ice Bar) for an hour while the ship was docked, just to walk on solid ground, and of course to visit an Ice Bar. When in Norway.

 5. Like A Baby

I don’t get seasick but I was a little worried how I'd feel after being on the sea for six days and nights. Maybe it was the gentle rocking that had me subconsciously thinking I was back in the nursery, but I slept like a baby. At home I sleep on average 4-5 hours a night, and wake up at least once. On board the Finnmarken I slept solidly for at least 7-8 hours at a time; a slumber miracle in my fatigued, bags-under-the-eyes world. I’d go back just to snooze beneath the Northern Lights. That's next on my bucket list.


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A trip to The North Cape, continental Europe's northernmost point, was a highlight. Flag was a bonus.

A trip to The North Cape, continental Europe's northernmost point, was a highlight. Flag was a bonus.




Kimberley Lovato

Kimberley Lovato has written about travel, lifestyle and food for national and international publications and websites including National Geographic Traveler, Executive Travel, American Way, AFAR, Condé Nast Traveller (UK), Ryan Air, b.there, Easy Jet Traveller, leitesculinaria.com and frommers.com, among others. She is the author of a Michelin Guidebook on Brussels, where she lived for six years Her culinary travel book, Walnut Wine & Truffle Groves, about the Dordogne region of France, won the "Best Travel Book" nod in 2012 from the Society of American Travel Writers, as did her personal essay, "Lost and Liberated," which also appeared in Best Women's Travel Writing, Volume 8. When she's not plotting her next trip or her annual pilgrimage to France, she resides in San Francisco where she is a correspondent for BBC's Passport Blog, a student in Stanford University's Creative Writing Certificate program, and a brave mother of a teenaged girl.